India, Ladakh
The Chemicals That Killed the Chang
A 76-year-old organic farmer and former head of the Ecological Centre on subsidised rice, a four-month tourist season, and beer that doesn't taste right anymore.
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More Soldiers Than Ladakhis
A farmers' organisation on subsidised competition, a jump in taxis every year, and an army presence that's quietly replaced the monastery as where sons go.
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The Rubbish Ladakh Was Never Built to Hold
A short, pointed account of a place that never had a garbage problem until it suddenly did.
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The Jewelry Trick That Taught Ladakh a Lesson
The president of the Women's Alliance Centre on a fading marriage tradition, a lesson learned the hard way, and why tourists are helping young Ladakhis love their own culture again.
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A Punishment Posting, Not a Calling
Members of SECMOL on textbooks with nothing to do with Ladakh, two hours of electricity a day, and teachers sent here as a penalty.
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